Style, travel & hobbies · /patek-philippe-watches/
Patek Philippe sits at the top of the traditional hierarchy, and the modern sports references — Nautilus and Aquanaut — are the least obtainable watches in the industry at retail. The pre-owned market is where they are actually bought.
Five pieces here, and they cover the two directions Patek goes in: the sports line that everybody wants, and the complicated dress watches the house would rather be known for.
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The 5131J World Time in cloisonné enamel and the 5524R Calatrava Pilot Travel Time are the two most interesting pieces here, and neither is a sports watch.
Patek Philippe · Ref. 5204R-011
A Patek grand complication — the kind of movement that takes a watchmaker the better part of a year.
$272,000
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5204G-001
A Patek grand complication — the kind of movement that takes a watchmaker the better part of a year.
$256,000
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5520RG-001
A Patek grand complication — the kind of movement that takes a watchmaker the better part of a year.
$229,000
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5822P-001
Patek's integrated-bracelet sports watch — the hardest reservation in watchmaking.
$185,000
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5270G-014
A Patek grand complication — the kind of movement that takes a watchmaker the better part of a year.
$153,000
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5712/1A
The 5712 — Nautilus with moonphase, power reserve and small seconds, discontinued and hunted.
$136,000
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5131J
Patek's World Time in yellow gold with a hand-painted cloisonné enamel map at its centre — 24 cities, one dial.
$115,000
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5524R
Patek's pilot in rose gold on brown calf, dual time zone, signed Tiffany & Co. on the dial — the double-signature collectors chase.
$70,700
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5065A
The 5065 Aquanaut on its tropical strap — the reference that started the queue.
$69,400
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 7140R-001
A Patek grand complication — the kind of movement that takes a watchmaker the better part of a year.
$61,800
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5060SJ
The 5060 Aquanaut in yellow gold, Roman numerals on black.
$61,600
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5905/1A-001
Patek Philippe at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$59,800
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 5960P-001
Patek Philippe at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$52,100
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Patek Philippe · Ref. 7130R-013
Patek Philippe at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$50,000
See It at The Luxury Closet →Patek produces roughly 70,000 watches a year across the entire range, and the steel Nautilus was discontinued in its most famous reference in 2021. Demand at authorised dealers exceeds supply by a wide margin, so the secondary market sets the real price.
Same design language, different register. The Nautilus is the 1976 Genta original with a porthole case and horizontally embossed dial; the Aquanaut is the 1997 sportier interpretation on a rubber strap. The Aquanaut is more wearable day to day and usually less expensive.
We would not buy any watch as an investment — but historically Patek has held value better than almost any brand, particularly complicated pieces and discontinued sports references. Buy it because you want to wear it.