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The Boyfriend Watch Box · /mens-watches/

The Boyfriend Watch Box: how to make him a watch guy

Almost nobody becomes a watch person on their own. It usually takes one gift, worn for a month, at which point the phone stops being how he checks the time and the whole thing becomes a problem you will be funding for years.

The tiers below are the ones that matter. Under $250 to find out whether he wears one at all. Around $500 for a statement. Four figures for the mechanical watch he keeps. Buy in that order and nothing is wasted.

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Tier one — find out if he wears one

A chronograph face and a designer name he has heard of, or a slim three-hand that disappears under a cuff. Either answers the question for a couple of hundred dollars.

Tier two — the statement

Gold, bracelet-set and unapologetic. For the boyfriend who dresses to be looked at.

Tier three — the one he keeps

Mechanical, repairable, and correct with a suit or a hoodie. This is the watch that gets handed down.

The other kind of watch

If he is more likely to wear a computer than a chronograph, this is the version with a near-total wear rate.

Tier four — the pre-owned luxury tier

Above about ten thousand dollars the market is pre-owned, because steel sports models from Rolex, Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe are effectively unbuyable at retail. These are carried over from our sister site loryn.com, each a single authenticated piece with its reference and condition stated.

  • Rolex Day-Date President 18038 36mm, Champagne pre-owned luxury men's watch, 36mm case

    Rolex · Ref. 18038

    Day-Date President 18038 36mm, Champagne

    Solid 18k gold President with a champagne dial and fluted bezel — the reference Tom Cruise wears in Rain Man.

    Condition
    Pre-loved
    Case size
    36mm

    Price at Amazon

    See It at Amazon
  • Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116520, Black pre-owned luxury men's watch, 40 mm case

    Rolex · Ref. 116520

    Cosmograph Daytona 116520, Black

    The steel 116520 with a black dial — the Daytona that ran for fifteen years and never sat unsold.

    Condition
    Good
    Case size
    40 mm

    $25,000

    See It at The Luxury Closet
  • Rolex Sprite GMT-Master II 126720 40mm, Black pre-owned luxury men's watch, One size case

    Rolex · Ref. 126720

    Sprite GMT-Master II 126720 40mm, Black

    A pre-loved 'Sprite' GMT-Master II — the left-handed green one.

    Condition
    Pre-loved
    Case size
    One size

    Price at Amazon

    See It at Amazon
  • Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLNR, 'Batman' pre-owned luxury men's watch, 40 mm case

    Rolex · Ref. 126710BLNR

    GMT-Master II 126710BLNR, 'Batman'

    The blue-and-black Cerachrom bezel — the Batman, on Jubilee.

    Condition
    Excellent
    Case size
    40 mm

    $22,900

    See It at The Luxury Closet
  • Cartier Santos Skeleton WHSA0026 pre-owned luxury men's watch, 40 mm case

    Cartier · Ref. WHSA0026

    Santos Skeleton WHSA0026

    The Santos with nothing to hide — skeleton dial, steel and ADLC.

    Condition
    Excellent
    Case size
    40 mm

    $21,900

    See It at The Luxury Closet
  • Audemars Piguet Millenary 77247BC, 18K White Gold pre-owned luxury men's watch, 39 mm case

    Audemars Piguet · Ref. 77247BC

    Millenary 77247BC, 18K White Gold

    The off-centre Millenary dial in white gold — Audemars Piguet's most architectural face.

    Condition
    Good
    Case size
    39 mm

    $20,400

    See It at The Luxury Closet
  • Rolex Cosmograph Daytona 116523, Grey Dial pre-owned luxury men's watch, 40 mm case

    Rolex · Ref. 116523

    Cosmograph Daytona 116523, Grey Dial

    Yellow gold and steel Daytona with a grey dial — the two-tone reference.

    Condition
    Good
    Case size
    40 mm

    $20,000

    See It at The Luxury Closet
  • Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner Starbucks Date Automatic Watch 41 pre-owned luxury men's watch, One size case

    Rolex

    Oyster Perpetual Submariner Starbucks Date Automatic Watch 41

    A pre-loved Submariner.

    Condition
    Pre-loved
    Case size
    One size

    Price at Amazon

    See It at Amazon

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Men's Watches FAQ

Should I buy him a new watch or a pre-owned one?

Below about $5,000, buy new — the pre-owned discount is small and the warranty is worth more. Above roughly $10,000, pre-owned is the normal way these watches are bought: the steel sports models people want have multi-year waiting lists at authorised dealers, so the secondary market is the market.

What is a good first watch for a man?

Something under $250 with a simple dial. The point of a first watch is to find out whether he actually puts one on in the morning — that is a habit question, not a horology question, and it is expensive to answer with a Swiss automatic.

What is the best watch to gift a boyfriend?

The TAG Heuer Carrera is the safest four-figure choice: mechanical, real motorsport history, sized to work with a suit or a t-shirt, and it never looks wrong. If the budget is lower, a slim three-hand dress watch is the most wearable option.

Automatic or quartz?

Quartz is more accurate, cheaper and needs a battery every few years. Automatic is mechanical, more expensive, needs servicing, and is the one people become sentimental about. Buy quartz for utility and automatic for meaning.

What size watch should he wear?

Broadly 38–42mm for most wrists. The case should not overhang the wrist bone. If you are buying blind, err smaller — oversized watches date faster than small ones.

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