
Cartier · Ref. HPI01356
Revelation D'une Panthere HPI01356 Black 18k White Gold
Cartier's panther — the house's animal, rendered in gold and stones.
- Condition
- Good
- Case size
- 37mm
$229,000
See It at The Luxury Closet →Style, travel & hobbies · /cartier-and-dress-watches/
Not every good watch is a Rolex or a Royal Oak, and the houses below cover the ground the big three do not. Cartier makes the best dress watches in the business — the Santos was arguably the first wristwatch designed for a man, in 1904 — while Breitling, Panerai, IWC and Omega make tool watches with real aviation and diving history behind them, and Vacheron, Piaget, Breguet and Jaeger-LeCoultre make the complicated, ultra-thin pieces collectors move on to last.
This is also the most accessible page in the luxury range. Several pieces here sit below ten thousand dollars, which is entry level in this company.
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The Santos and the Santos-Dumont. Square cases, exposed screws, and the only dress watch that works with a suit and a t-shirt equally.

Cartier · Ref. HPI01356
Cartier's panther — the house's animal, rendered in gold and stones.
$229,000
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. WHSA0016
The Santos skeletonised, its bridges shaped into Roman numerals — rose gold.
$59,800
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Cartier · Ref. WT100012
The Tank: Cartier's rectangle, drawn from the shape of a Renault tank seen from above.
$49,000
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Cartier · Ref. HPI00635
A Cartier shaped case — the house's quieter, more collectable register.
$46,800
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Cartier · Ref. W1556223
A Cartier shaped case — the house's quieter, more collectable register.
$45,700
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Cartier · Ref. WGSA0060
Santos-Dumont in platinum, green strap, Eastern Arabic numerals.
$41,700
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Cartier · Ref. WGSA0018
The Santos — the wristwatch Cartier made for an aviator who could not check a pocket watch mid-flight.
$38,100
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Cartier · Ref. WJBB0038
The Ballon Bleu, with its sapphire cabochon tucked into the case — Cartier's roundest idea.
$35,400
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Cartier · Ref. WA506451
A Cartier shaped case — the house's quieter, more collectable register.
$34,800
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. WE902019
The Ballon Bleu, with its sapphire cabochon tucked into the case — Cartier's roundest idea.
$34,800
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. W3010551
Cartier at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$34,800
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. WE902019
The Ballon Bleu, with its sapphire cabochon tucked into the case — Cartier's roundest idea.
$34,800
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. W2020057
The Santos — the wristwatch Cartier made for an aviator who could not check a pocket watch mid-flight.
$33,700
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. WGSA0082
Platinum Santos-Dumont on alligator — the flattest, quietest watch Cartier makes.
$32,100
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Cartier · Ref. WE9009Z3
The Ballon Bleu, with its sapphire cabochon tucked into the case — Cartier's roundest idea.
$32,100
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. WHSA0044
The Santos — the wristwatch Cartier made for an aviator who could not check a pocket watch mid-flight.
$32,100
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. WJBB0057
The Ballon Bleu, with its sapphire cabochon tucked into the case — Cartier's roundest idea.
$30,500
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. W69006Z2
The Ballon Bleu, with its sapphire cabochon tucked into the case — Cartier's roundest idea.
$30,000
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. WHSA0026
The Santos with nothing to hide — skeleton dial, steel and ADLC.
$21,900
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Cartier · Ref. WA503951
A Cartier shaped case — the house's quieter, more collectable register.
$19,800
See It at The Luxury Closet →Chronomats and Navitimers — aviation chronographs with genuine cockpit history and the most legible dials in the category.

Breitling · Ref. RB0910371B1X1
Breitling's pilot chronograph, with the slide rule aviators actually used.
$22,000
See It at The Luxury Closet →Breitling · Ref. UB0134
Breitling's Chronomat in two-tone, grey dial, rouleaux-style rubber.
$9,600
See It at The Luxury Closet →Breitling · Ref. UB0134
The Chronomat in blue — rose gold bezel on steel.
$9,300
See It at The Luxury Closet →Breitling
Breitling's Top Time chronograph with the green dial.
$7,500
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Breitling
The Navitimer B01 — slide rule, in-house chronograph.
$7,500
See It at The Luxury Closet →The houses that do not fit a single page. Hublot's Big Bang, Omega's Speedmaster and Seamaster, ultra-thin Vacheron and Piaget, Jaeger-LeCoultre and Breguet complications, and a Richard Mille for anyone who has genuinely run out of things to buy.

Piaget · Ref. G0A34054
Piaget at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$24,000
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Blancpain · Ref. AC02-12B53-63B
Blancpain at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$22,000
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Hublot · Ref. 0123.VR
Hublot's Big Bang — the fusion of gold, ceramic and rubber that made purists furious and everyone else curious.
$20,900
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Van Cleef & Arpels · Ref. ARM93600
Richard Mille: a skeletonised movement suspended inside a case built like a chassis.
$20,400
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Hublot · Ref. 6110.RX
Hublot's Big Bang — the fusion of gold, ceramic and rubber that made purists furious and everyone else curious.
$20,100
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Omega · Ref. 3689.30.31
The Speedmaster — the chronograph that went to the moon and never changed its face.
$19,800
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Panerai · Ref. PAM00671
Panerai: a cushion case and a crown guard, drawn from Italian navy frogmen.
$19,800
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Breguet
Breguet at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$19,500
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Breguet · Ref. 3810BR/92/9ZU
Breguet at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$17,600
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Hublot · Ref. 0170.RX
Hublot's Big Bang — the fusion of gold, ceramic and rubber that made purists furious and everyone else curious.
$17,600
See It at The Luxury Closet →
IWC · Ref. IW5445-05
IWC at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$17,400
See It at The Luxury Closet →
TAG Heuer · Ref. CAR5A90.FC6415
TAG Heuer at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$16,400
See It at The Luxury Closet →
IWC · Ref. IW5001-01
IWC at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$16,200
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Ulysse Nardin
Ulysse Nardin at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$16,200
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Panerai · Ref. PAM00008
Panerai at full complication — a watch built to be kept, not replaced.
$15,600
See It at The Luxury Closet →
Chanel · Ref. H3827
White ceramic J12 with a blue-tipped bezel — the watch that made ceramic luxury.
$3,500
See It at The Luxury Closet →The Santos, in the modern case with the QuickSwitch bracelet. It is the most versatile Cartier made — square enough to read as a dress watch, robust enough to wear daily — and the Santos-Dumont is the thinner, dressier alternative.
Yes, in the tool-watch tradition rather than the dress-watch one. Breitling holds COSC chronometer certification across the line and the in-house B01 chronograph movement is one of the better automatic chronographs made at any price.
A Breitling Navitimer or Top Time, a Panerai Luminor, or a Chanel J12 in ceramic. All three are genuinely well-made watches from established houses, and all three sit well below where Rolex and AP start on the secondary market.